Tudor
- Founded
- 1926
- Based in
- Geneva, Switzerland
- In our catalog
- 16 watches from $2,100 to $6,300
Tudor began as a cheaper Rolex and spent decades being treated that way. That changed in the 2010s. With the Black Bay, the Pelagos and its own movements, Tudor built a separate identity with a strong vintage streak, and today plenty of people choose one not as a compromise but because they prefer it.
History
The Tudor name was registered in 1926 on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. In 1946 he set up Montres Tudor SA with a clear plan: put reliable bought-in movements inside Rolex-made Oyster cases and sell the result for less. Early Tudor Oyster Prince watches carried the Rolex name on their cases and crowns.
The Tudor Submariner of 1954 became a working tool for navies, especially the French Marine Nationale, which issued them for decades. In 1969 Tudor introduced the angular "snowflake" hands that are now a signature. The brand was pulled from the US market in the 1990s and returned in 2013, a year after launching the Black Bay. In 2015 it released its first in-house movement, made by Kenissi, a manufacture it shares with partners including Chanel and Norqain.
Signature models
- Black Bay 58: A 39 mm diver sized like the 1958 original, and probably the most recommended Tudor.
- Black Bay 54: An even smaller 37 mm diver, inspired by the first Tudor Submariner.
- Black Bay 41: The full-size Black Bay with a domed crystal and big crown.
- Black Bay GMT and Black Bay 58 GMT: Travel watches with the familiar two-tone bezels.
- Black Bay Pro: A GMT built for adventure, with a fixed 24-hour bezel.
- Black Bay Chrono: A chronograph with a panda dial and a movement based on Breitling's B01.
- Black Bay Ceramic: A black ceramic Black Bay with a Master Chronometer-certified movement.
- Black Bay 58 Bronze: A bronze case that develops its own patina.
- Black Bay 36: A simpler three-hander without a bezel.
- Pelagos 39 and Pelagos FXD: Titanium divers, the FXD made with the French navy.
- Ranger and Ranger Beige Dial: A plain, Explorer-style field watch.
- Royal 41 and 1926 39: Tudor's dressier, more affordable lines.
What it's known for
Tudor uses Rolex-level suppliers and testing, its in-house movements run for 70 hours, and its bracelets have a clever adjustable clasp called T-fit. Unlike Rolex, most Tudors are easy to buy at retail.
Price and positioning
Tudor watches cost from about $2,000 to $6,000. It's priced against Omega's entry models, Longines, Oris and Norqain, and it holds its value better than most of them.
Tudor watches in our library
- Tudor 1926 39 ($2,100 to $2,350)
- Tudor Royal 41 ($2,850 to $3,100)
- Tudor Ranger ($3,150 to $3,400)
- Tudor Ranger Beige Dial ($3,300 to $3,550)
- Tudor Black Bay 36 ($3,600 to $3,900)
- Tudor Black Bay 54 ($4,100 to $4,400)
- Tudor Pelagos FXD ($4,300 to $4,600)
- Tudor Black Bay 58 ($4,325 to $4,600)
- Tudor Black Bay Pro ($4,325 to $4,650)
- Tudor Black Bay 41 ($4,500 to $4,800)
- Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,500 to $4,950)
- Tudor Black Bay 58 Bronze ($4,775 to $4,975)
- Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT ($4,875 to $5,175)
- Tudor Pelagos 39 ($5,000 to $5,300)
- Tudor Black Bay Ceramic ($5,225 to $5,525)
- Tudor Black Bay Chrono ($5,925 to $6,300)
Vintage Tudor watches
- Tudor Submariner Snowflake 9411/0 (pre-owned, $9,000 to $15,000)