Finally, the Tudor GMT I wanted
By Rafael Ortiz, Mexico City ยท
For six years I told anyone who asked that the Black Bay GMT was a great movement in a case that was too tall. Every time Tudor brought out a new 58, I'd say the same thing: put a GMT in that. In 2024 they did, and I'm a little smug about it.
The numbers first, because they're the whole story. The 58 GMT is 39 mm wide and 12.8 mm thick, against 41 and 14.6 for the original Black Bay GMT. Lug width drops to 20 mm. On a wrist, that's the difference between sitting on top of your arm and hugging it. Under a white uniform shirt cuff, 12.8 mm is the line where I stop noticing a watch, and this is right on it.
The movement is the MT5450-U, which is a flyer, with 65 hours of reserve. Land in Seoul, pull the crown, jump the hour hand forward, and the date moves with it. The GMT hand keeps Mexico City. Push the crown back in and you're done before the seatbelt sign goes off. That should be the standard for every GMT, and it's great to see it at this price.
The bezel is a burgundy and black two-tone, which Tudor fans have been calling Coke since day one. It's lovely in daylight, a bit dark in low light, and I'd prefer more contrast between the halves when I'm using it for a third zone. The black dial is as clear as ever, with the snowflake hour hand and solid lume.
Now, the gripes, because there are always some. The reserve went down from 70 to 65 hours. Not a big deal, but it's a step backward on paper. Water resistance is 200 meters, so no complaints there, but the closed caseback hides a movement I'd like to look at. And the bracelet, while comfortable, still has that Tudor clasp that I wish had a quicker micro-adjust for long flights when your wrists swell a little.
The price is 4,875 to 5,175 dollars. That's more than the original Black Bay GMT, for a smaller watch. Some people will feel that's unfair. I don't, because I'd actually wear this one every day, and the old one I'd only wear when I felt like it.
If you're a traveler and have been waiting for a sensible-sized Tudor GMT, stop waiting.