The answer to most questions
By Tom Hargreaves, Falmouth, Cornwall ยท
When students ask me which dive watch to buy, and they've got about four grand, I nearly always say this one. Not because it's the toughest or the deepest, but because it's the right size, it's well made, and it's from a brand with real history.
It's based on Tudor's 1958 diver, ref 7924, the Big Crown. 39 mm across, 11.9 mm thick, 20 mm lugs. That's the size dive watches used to be before everything got huge, and it suits almost every wrist. Under a cuff it's fine. Over a wetsuit it's fine.
Inside is the MT5402 with 70 hours. No date, black dial, gilt accents, aluminium bezel insert, 200 m, closed back.
The aluminium bezel is a bit of a thing for me. It'll scratch and fade. I happen to like that, a diver should look used. Some people want ceramic, and they're welcome to it.
The bracelet's riveted-style links look nice, and it's comfortable. The clasp, on the early ones I've handled, doesn't have a proper adjustable diver's extension, which is a real shame. You'd be on a strap for diving. Newer versions have the T-fit clasp, which helps.
Price is $4,325 to $4,600. Fair, against an Omega or a Rolex, and a lot of watch.
My only real criticism is the gilt on the dial, which looks a bit too vintage-pretty for what's supposed to be a tool. A plain white-marker version would suit me better. But I'm splitting hairs.