Still the benchmark, annoyingly
By Tom Hargreaves, Falmouth, Cornwall ยท
The Submariner goes back to 1953 and the basic recipe hasn't changed much. A black dial, big hands, a bezel, a steel case, a decent bracelet.
The latest no-date 124060 is 41 mm across and 12.5 mm thick, with 21 mm lugs. The case is a bit chunkier at the lugs than the old 114060, which some people moan about. I don't. It sits right on a wrist my size.
The 3230 movement gives you 70 hours, which covers a weekend. Rolex keep their movements in-house and they're incredibly robust. No complaints there.
What I really like is the bracelet. The Glidelock clasp is the best wetsuit extension on the market, full stop. You can adjust it in tiny steps without tools, in about two seconds, on a rocking boat, wearing gloves. It makes the Sub better to dive with than nearly anything else at the price.
No date, which I prefer. The dial is perfectly symmetrical without the window and the cyclops lens.
The bezel's ceramic, and the action is crisp, 120 clicks, with a satisfying solid feel. Lume is excellent. Crown guards are there and do their job.
So what's the catch? Mostly buying one. Rolex boutiques have waiting lists, and the grey market wants a lot more than the $9,300 to $9,650 list price. There's also the image problem. Turn up on a dive boat with a Sub and some people will assume you've never been wet. That's daft, it's one of the most capable watches you can buy, but it's a fact.
Something people forget: the 21 mm lug width is a pain if you want to put it on a strap. 20 mm and 22 mm straps are everywhere; 21 mm ones less so. On the bracelet you won't care, and the bracelet's the reason to buy it, but anyone hoping to run it on rubber in summer will end up hunting about online for a decent 21 mm rubber strap.
Lume is the other thing I'd mention again, because it matters at the end of a day when the light's going and the vis is down to a couple of metres. Rolex's blue Chromalight is bright and lasts well. It's not tritium, but for painted lume it's about as good as it gets.
If you can get one at list, buy it. If you can't, look at a Tudor Black Bay 58 and don't feel bad.