That dial, again
By Julien Moreau, Geneva ยท
The Air-King dial has divided opinion since 2016, and I am firmly on the side of division.
The name is old, going back to the 1940s and a series of Rolex models named for aviators, and for most of its life the Air-King was the plainest, cheapest watch Rolex made. Then in 2016 Rolex reinvented it with a black dial bearing large 3, 6 and 9 numerals, a minute scale in bold figures around them, a green seconds hand and a yellow and green coronet, all in honour of a supersonic car project. Collectors raised an eyebrow. Some raised both.
The 2022 version, ref. 126900, smoothed things out a little: crown guards were added to the case, the minute scale gained a zero before the five so that it reads symmetrically, and the 3230 inside gives 70 hours. The case is 40 mm by 11.9 mm, the back is closed, the bracelet is the Oyster, and it is water resistant to 100 m.
My objection is simple. The dial has too many ideas on it, and the Rolex colours make it look like it is wearing a team scarf. At seventy-nine to eighty-three hundred dollars it costs noticeably more than the Oyster Perpetual, which is the better-looking watch.
Who should buy it? Someone who already owns a quieter Rolex and wants one nobody else at the club will be wearing. On that count it is a very good choice.