Zenith
- Founded
- 1865
- Based in
- Le Locle, Switzerland
- In our catalog
- 6 watches from $5,800 to $21,800
Zenith's story turns on one movement. The El Primero, launched in 1969, was one of the first automatic chronograph movements and beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, fast enough to time tenths of a second. It nearly disappeared during the quartz crisis, survived because one employee refused to destroy the tooling, and is still at the heart of the brand.
History
Georges Favre-Jacot founded the company in Le Locle in 1865 and was one of the first to bring all the steps of watchmaking under one roof. The company took the name Zenith from a successful movement and won thousands of prizes for precision.
In January 1969 Zenith announced the El Primero. A few years later, under American ownership, it was ordered to stop making mechanical movements and destroy the tooling. Engineer Charles Vermot hid the plans and tools in an attic, and when demand for mechanical chronographs returned in the 1980s, Zenith could restart production. Rolex used a modified El Primero in the Daytona from 1988 to 2000. LVMH bought Zenith in 1999.
Signature models
- Chronomaster Original: A modern version of the 1969 El Primero chronograph with its tri-colored sub-dials.
- Chronomaster Sport: A sporty chronograph with a ceramic bezel and a movement that times tenths of a second.
- Defy Skyline: An integrated-bracelet sports watch with a star-patterned dial.
- Defy Extreme: A big, tough chronograph.
- Pilot Type 20 Extra Special: A large pilot's watch.
- Elite Classic: A slim, classic dress watch.
What it's known for
Zenith makes its own movements, and the El Primero is still the reason most people buy one: it's a rare chance to own a movement with this much history at a non-astronomical price. The Chronomaster dials, with their overlapping grey, blue and anthracite sub-dials, are some of the most recognizable in watchmaking.
Price and positioning
Most Zeniths cost $6,000 to $20,000. If you want a chronograph with real horological history, the Chronomaster is one of the most compelling at its price, and it's often cross-shopped with Omega's Speedmaster and TAG Heuer's Carrera.
Zenith watches in our library
- Zenith Elite Classic ($5,800 to $6,300)
- Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special ($6,800 to $7,300)
- Zenith Defy Skyline ($8,600 to $9,200)
- Zenith Chronomaster Original ($10,000 to $10,800)
- Zenith Chronomaster Sport ($11,500 to $12,500)
- Zenith Defy Extreme ($20,000 to $21,800)
Vintage Zenith watches
- Zenith El Primero A386 (pre-owned, $12,000 to $22,000)