Panerai
- Founded
- 1860
- Based in
- Neuchâtel, Switzerland (founded in Florence, Italy)
- In our catalog
- 7 watches from $5,000 to $23,500
Panerai makes big watches with a military past. Its cushion-shaped cases, oversized numerals and glowing sandwich dials come from instruments built for Italian navy commandos in the 1930s and 1940s. When it went on public sale in the 1990s, it started a trend for large watches that shaped a whole decade.
History
Giovanni Panerai opened a watch shop on the Ponte alle Grazie in Florence in 1860. The business became a supplier of precision instruments to the Italian Royal Navy and in 1916 patented Radiomir, a radium-based luminous paste. In the 1930s it developed underwater watches for the navy's frogmen, using Rolex movements and cases, which became the Radiomir. In the 1950s it introduced the Luminor, with a crown-protecting bridge.
Panerai's watches were made only for the military until 1993, when a civilian collection was launched. Sylvester Stallone wore one in the 1996 film Daylight and ordered more for friends. The Vendôme Group (now Richemont) bought Panerai in 1997, and production moved to Neuchâtel, where Panerai now makes its own movements.
Signature models
- Luminor Marina: The classic Luminor with its crown-protecting bridge, sandwich dial and small seconds.
- Luminor Base Logo: The simplest, most affordable Luminor.
- Luminor Due 38: A thinner, smaller Luminor that suits smaller wrists.
- Luminor GMT: Adds a second time zone.
- Radiomir 1940: The cushion-cased model with wire lugs, inspired by the first navy watches.
- Submersible: A dive watch with a rotating bezel.
- Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech: A 44 mm Submersible in a carbon composite case.
What it's known for
Panerai watches are typically 40 to 47 mm, with sandwich dials (two layers with luminous material between them) that glow brightly. The brand has a devoted community of collectors known as Paneristi.
Price and positioning
A Luminor Base Logo starts around $5,000, and most models cost $8,000 to $10,000 or more. IWC's Big Pilot and Breitling are the usual alternatives for a big, bold watch. Pre-owned Panerais often sell well below retail, so it's worth looking at the used market.
Panerai watches in our library
- Panerai Luminor Base Logo ($5,000 to $5,400)
- Panerai Luminor Due 38 ($7,000 to $7,500)
- Panerai Luminor Marina ($8,700 to $9,300)
- Panerai Radiomir 1940 ($8,800 to $9,500)
- Panerai Luminor GMT ($9,600 to $10,500)
- Panerai Submersible ($10,200 to $11,000)
- Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech ($22,000 to $23,500)