Cartier
- Founded
- 1847
- Based in
- Paris, France
- In our catalog
- 15 watches from $3,250 to $39,000
Cartier is the jeweler that made the wristwatch elegant. It was making men's wristwatches when most men still carried pocket watches, and many of its designs from the early twentieth century are still sold today with only minor changes. If you want a watch that isn't round, Cartier is where to start.
History
Louis-François Cartier took over a Paris jewelry workshop in 1847. His grandsons Louis, Pierre and Jacques turned it into a global brand with shops in Paris, London and New York. In 1904 Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviator who needed to check the time without letting go of his controls. The Santos went on general sale in 1911.
The Tank followed in 1917, its shape said to be inspired by the tanks of the First World War, seen from above. Over the following decades Cartier added the oval Baignoire, the melted-looking Crash from London in 1967, the Pasha and the Ballon Bleu. Cartier has been part of the Richemont group since it was formed in 1988 and is one of the biggest watch brands in the world by sales.
Signature models
- Tank Must: The accessible Tank in steel, with a quartz movement or the solar SolarBeat version.
- Tank Louis Cartier: The classic gold Tank, a favorite of everyone from Andy Warhol to Jackie Kennedy.
- Tank Française and Tank Américaine: Variations on the theme, one with an integrated bracelet, one elongated.
- Santos de Cartier: A square watch with screws on the bezel and a quick-change bracelet, the sportiest Cartier.
- Santos-Dumont: A thinner, dressier version of the original 1904 design.
- Ballon Bleu: A round watch with the crown tucked under a protective arch and a blue cabochon.
- Crash: A distorted, surreal shape, made in small numbers and highly collectible.
What it's known for
Cartier's designs work because they're simple and perfectly balanced. Many Cartier watches use quartz movements, which purists criticize but which keep the cases thin. Mechanical versions use in-house or Swiss calibers. Cartier's collectors' pieces, especially from the Privé collection, have become some of the hottest watches on the market.
Price and positioning
A steel Tank Must starts around $3,000, Santos and Ballon Bleu models cost $5,000 to $10,000, and gold pieces and the Crash run much higher. Cartier holds its value well, and the Santos and Tank are among the safest watch purchases in terms of style that doesn't date.
Cartier watches in our library
- Cartier Tank Must Large ($3,250 to $3,500)
- Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat ($3,400 to $3,600)
- Cartier Tank Américaine Small ($4,000 to $4,300)
- Cartier Tank Française Medium ($4,350 to $4,700)
- Cartier Panthère de Cartier Medium ($4,950 to $5,350)
- Cartier Santos-Dumont Large ($5,400 to $5,800)
- Cartier Ballon Bleu 33 ($5,850 to $6,300)
- Cartier Ballon Bleu 40 ($6,650 to $7,100)
- Cartier Santos de Cartier Medium ($7,350 to $7,900)
- Cartier Pasha de Cartier 41 ($7,500 to $8,100)
- Cartier Santos de Cartier Large ($7,950 to $8,500)
- Cartier Baignoire Small ($10,500 to $11,500)
- Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Large ($13,700 to $14,500)
- Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton ($30,000 to $32,000)
- Cartier Crash Small ($36,000 to $39,000)