Breitling

Founded
1884
Based in
Grenchen, Switzerland
In our catalog
13 watches from $3,550 to $10,200

Breitling built its name on chronographs and on aviation, and the Navitimer, with its busy slide-rule bezel, is still one of the most recognizable pilot's watches ever made. In the last few years the brand has softened its image, moving away from oversized watches toward a warmer, more vintage-inspired style and a broader range of sizes.

History

Léon Breitling opened his workshop in Saint-Imier in 1884, specializing in chronographs and precision counters. The company moved to Grenchen, and his son Gaston introduced one of the first chronographs with a separate start-stop pusher in 1915. In 1934 his grandson Willy added a second pusher for reset, creating the two-pusher layout almost every chronograph still uses.

Breitling made cockpit instruments and watches for aviators, and in 1952 launched the Navitimer, whose circular slide rule let pilots work out fuel, speed and distance on the wrist. It became the official watch of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association. In 1969 Breitling was one of the companies behind the first automatic chronograph movements.

The quartz crisis brought the family era to an end, and in 1979 pilot and watch entrepreneur Ernest Schneider bought the brand. He relaunched the Chronomat in 1984 and made every Breitling a certified chronometer. In 2017 the private equity firm CVC bought a majority stake and Georges Kern, formerly of IWC, became CEO. He reorganized the collections and leaned into vintage designs.

Signature models

What it's known for

Breitling was the first major brand to have its whole range certified by COSC. The in-house B01 chronograph caliber, introduced in 2009, offers a 70-hour power reserve and a column wheel. The designs are dense with information, which some people love and others find busy.

Price and positioning

Breitling sits alongside Omega and TAG Heuer's upper range. Three-hand models start around $4,000, and B01 chronographs cost $8,000 to $10,000. Pre-owned prices tend to fall further than Rolex or Omega, so used Breitlings are good value.

Breitling watches in our library

Vintage Breitling watches

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