Audemars Piguet
- Founded
- 1875
- Based in
- Le Brassus, Switzerland
- In our catalog
- 9 watches from $27,000 to $95,000
For most people Audemars Piguet means one watch: the Royal Oak. That's understandable, since the octagonal bezel with its eight visible screws is one of the most copied designs in the industry. But AP was a respected maker of complicated watches for almost a century before the Royal Oak, and it is still one of the few big Swiss houses owned by its founding families.
History
Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, two young watchmakers from the Vallée de Joux, went into business together in Le Brassus in 1875 and registered the company in 1881. The valley was known for complicated movements, and AP specialized in them: minute repeaters, perpetual calendars and very thin calibers, many supplied to other brands.
The company survived the 1970s quartz crisis largely thanks to a gamble. In 1972 it released the Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta reportedly overnight: a 39 mm steel watch with an integrated bracelet and a thin automatic movement, priced like a gold watch. It sold slowly at first, then became the template for the luxury sports watch. In 1993 the bigger, bolder Royal Oak Offshore followed, designed by Emmanuel Gueit and nicknamed "The Beast" by critics at the time.
Recent decades have been about the Royal Oak in all its forms, plus the round Code 11.59 collection launched in 2019. AP has also moved away from traditional retailers toward its own boutiques and private "AP House" lounges.
Signature models
- Royal Oak Selfwinding 41: The modern core of the line, in 41 mm with the "Grande Tapisserie" waffle-patterned dial.
- Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin: The direct descendant of the 1972 original at 39 mm, with the thin caliber 7121 and a slim profile.
- Royal Oak Chronograph 41: The sportiest everyday Royal Oak, with two sub-dials.
- Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43: Larger, louder and rubber-strapped, the watch that brought AP to athletes and musicians.
- Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar: Shows AP's complication roots in a Royal Oak case.
- Code 11.59 Selfwinding: A round case with an octagonal middle section and a double-curved crystal, AP's attempt at something new.
What it's known for
The Royal Oak case alternates brushed and polished surfaces with sharp bevels, and the bracelet tapers link by link. The work is hard to do well and it shows. AP is also known for scarcity. Steel Royal Oaks are allocated to established clients, and secondary-market prices for some references sit far above retail.
Price and positioning
AP sits in the top tier of Swiss watchmaking alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Steel Royal Oaks start around $29,000, chronographs and the Jumbo cost more, and gold or complicated pieces run well into six figures. If you want the design without the price, the integrated-bracelet field is now full of more affordable alternatives, but none has the same history.
Audemars Piguet watches in our library
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver ($27,000 to $29,500)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41 ($29,000 to $31,000)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 ($29,000 to $31,000)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43 ($32,000 to $34,500)
- Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding ($32,000 to $34,000)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin ($37,000 to $39,000)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 ($38,000 to $41,000)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold ($40,000 to $42,000)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ($90,000 to $95,000)
Vintage Audemars Piguet watches
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST Jumbo (pre-owned, $90,000 to $180,000)