Fumé, and almost nothing else
By Marco Bellini, Zurich ·
Look at the movement, then come back to the dial, otherwise the dial wins and you never see the rest.
HMC 327, hand-wound, 72 hours, small seconds. Moser's double stripes across wide bridges, which is their own version of Geneva stripes, and a large balance that is pleasant to watch through the back. Simple, properly made, nothing extra.
38 mm by 10.7 mm in steel. I like this size enormously. 30 m.
Criticism. 17,000 to 19,000 USD for a steel time-only watch is a lot, and a Lange Saxonia in gold is not as far away as you'd think. And the dial, beautiful as it is, makes the whole watch about the dial. Some people want that. I turn watches over for a living, more or less, so I want a bit more balance between the two sides.
Still, if you want one fumé dial in your life, this is the one to have.