Seiko looks back to 1913, and mostly gets it right
By Kenji Watanabe, Osaka · · Seiko
In 1913 Seiko, then still Seikosha, made the Laurel, which is usually described as Japan's first domestically produced wristwatch. I have only seen one behind glass. It is small, plain and very serious, the watch of an engineer rather than a jeweller. So I was curious how Seiko would borrow from it for the new Presage Classic pair.
The facts first:
- Two references. HCC005 has a white enamel dial. HCC006 has a black urushi lacquer dial, hand-painted and polished, made under the supervision of the lacquer artist Isshu Tamura.
- The case is 39.6 mm across and 12.4 mm thick, with a sapphire caseback.
- The movement is the 6R5H, automatic, 21,600 beats per hour, with 72 hours of reserve. Seiko rates it at +25 to -15 seconds per day.
- Both join the permanent collection from September. US prices are about $1,400 for the enamel and $1,650 for the urushi.
The dials are the reason to buy. Enamel and urushi are both slow crafts, and at this price that is unusual. Of the two I prefer the urushi. Black lacquer has a depth that photographs poorly and looks very good under the fluorescent light of an Osaka office, which I think is where most of these will live.
Now the parts I like less. There is a 24-hour indicator at six o'clock. It is not a second time zone. It simply follows the hour hand. The 6R5H uses it, so the dial must show it, but a watch inspired by the Laurel should be calm, and this small extra hand is not calm. Also, 12.4 mm is thick for a dress watch with an enamel dial. Under a shirt cuff on the Midosuji line in July, every millimetre is noticeable.
My older Presage enamel uses the 6R15 with 50 hours and a date window. Compared with it, the new pair is a clear step up in movement and in dial. If you can accept the 24-hour hand, the HCC006 especially is a very good watch for the money, and a polite nod to an important ancestor.
Kenji Watanabe is a pen name of The Watch Quest editorial team. Opinions are based on the published specs, the brand's own information and the watch's reputation, not a long-term test.